Built to Last: Essential Fabric Tests for Durable, High-Performance Clothing

Written by Katelyn Madsen

Have you ever pulled one of your favorite pieces of clothing out of the dryer, only to find that it’s shrunk or lost its shape? It’s frustrating when a beloved garment doesn’t hold up after just a few washes, especially if it was high-priced or something you were excited to wear.

For merchandisers and buyers alike, knowing how a fabric performs after multiple uses and washes is crucial. It all comes down to quality—something that customers are yearning for, especially in the new year. Whether it’s a high-performance jacket, golf apparel, or everyday wear, understanding fabric testing is a key part of making and selecting quality apparel. These tests help identify potential issues such as:

• Pilling
• Skewing and Bowing
• Stretch and Recovery
• Abrasion Resistance
• Shrinkage
• Snagging

Testing for these common fabric issues not only ensures garments live up to their promises but also guarantees long-term customer satisfaction. By understanding how fabric reacts under different conditions, manufacturers can better meet customer expectations, creating products that are both durable and reliable. For merchandisers, knowing which products have undergone these tests is essential for selecting quality merchandise that will meet the demands of customers.

Pilling: The Fight to Keep Fabric Smooth

Pilling occurs when small balls of fiber form on the surface of the fabric due to friction. This issue is especially noticeable in synthetics, where the fibers tend to ball up and remain on the surface. Natural fibers like cotton or wool may still form pills, but these can be more easily removed and tend to fall off over time. Fabrics that pill excessively can look worn after just a few wears, leading to poor customer experiences and potential returns. 

To test for pilling, simulate everyday wear and tear by applying a consistent and repeated amount of friction to the fabric surface. This process should be conducted over a longer period of time to ensure that any pills that form are a true reflection of the fabric’s resilience. To minimize pilling, manufacturers can treat fabrics with special coatings or blend synthetic fibers with natural ones to improve durability while maintaining a soft feel. 

Skewing & Bowing: Fabric Integrity After Washing

Skewing and bowing are common defects in woven fabrications that happen when the weave loses its original alignment or stretches unevenly. This is most common with fabrics that are not properly finished or treated. When garments skew, they may look misshapen, especially around the seams or edges, affecting their fit and overall appearance. Testing for skewing and bowing by laundering and stretching sample fabric will ensure the garments retain their shape after multiple wears and washes. Manufacturers can minimize these distortions by ensuring proper fabric construction and using reinforcing techniques that strengthen fabric structure.

Stretch and Recovery: Ensuring Comfort and Fit

Stretch and recovery refer to a fabric’s ability to stretch under pressure and return to its original shape once the tension is released. This property is especially important in performance wear for sports like golf. Without proper recovery, fabrics can sag in areas like the elbows, knees, or seat, leading to an ill-fitting garment that compromises both comfort and performance. To enhance elasticity and prevent stretching out, designers often incorporate spandex or elastane into fabric blends. Proper stretch and recovery not only maintain the garment’s structure but also help preserve a smooth, flattering silhouette, ensuring both performance and style are upheld.

Abrasion Resistance: Withstand Wear and Tear

Abrasion resistance is a vital factor in ensuring garments can withstand the rigors of daily wear. Certain areas of clothing, like the shoulders of a jacket or the thighs of pants, are more prone to abrasion due to friction from bags, seatbacks, or repeated movement. Fabrics with poor abrasion resistance will show signs of wear and tear quickly, resulting in thinning, fraying, or holes in high-stress areas. Testing abrasion resistance involves applying friction under controlled conditions to evaluate how well it holds up. A garment’s longevity and functionality depend on its ability to resist abrasion, especially in areas that encounter frequent pressure and friction.

Shrinkage: Maintaining Size After Wash

Shrinkage is a common issue, especially with natural fibers like cotton and wool, which tend to shrink more than synthetic fabrics when washed. A garment that shrinks unexpectedly can lead to sizing issues, frustrating customers and reducing the garment’s usability. Testing shrinkage involves subjecting fabric to various washing and drying cycles to determine how much the fabric will change in size. Manufacturers can also take steps to pre-shrink fabrics or use synthetic blends to reduce the risk of shrinkage, ensuring garments maintain their intended fit after laundering. Controlling shrinkage can directly improve customer satisfaction by offering consistent sizing across multiple washes.

Snagging: Preventing Fabric Runs and Damage

Snagging refers to the process of fabric getting caught on external objects, like bags or rough surfaces, causing small runs or holes. While snagging is often more visible in delicate or lightweight fabrics, it can occur in a variety of materials, particularly those subjected to friction in everyday use. Testing for snag resistance involves simulating real-world wear conditions to determine how easily the fabric can be damaged. Fabrics that snag easily can lead to a decrease in garment appearance, and over time, can cause irreparable damage. To minimize snagging, manufacturers can choose tightly woven fabrics or use synthetic fibers that resist runs. Additionally, testing fabrics for snag resistance helps ensure that garments maintain their aesthetic appeal and quality over time, preventing returns due to damaged clothing.

Conclusion

In the competitive apparel market, ensuring that fabrics perform well across key tests—such as pilling, abrasion, stretch and recovery, shrinkage, skewing, and snagging—is critical for producing high-quality, durable clothing. By thoroughly testing fabric performance, manufacturers can ensure their products meet the demands of consumers, offering garments that look good, fit well, and stand the test of time. Ultimately, a well-tested garment leads to increased satisfaction, fewer returns, and a reputation for quality that keeps customers coming back.

This article was based on the AGM webinar, “What Makes a Great Apparel Product” featuring Susi Proudman. To watch the full webinar and gain more industry insight, visit the AGM’s YouTube Channel. Only members can view.

 

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